There we were last weekend in San Antonio on Cinco de Mayo. As one might expect the shops and restaurants along the Riverwalk teemed with tourists. But surprisingly, and to our delight, just a few hundred yards away—we had the spectacular Mexican Cultural Institute all to ourselves. The first floor exhibition space was devoted to a show of remarkable artwork from contemporary Mexican artists inspired by the Monarch Butterfly, millions of which winter in central Mexico each year. The second floor’s permanent exhibit explored thousands of years of Mexican art and culture.  And way in the back, a wall lettered with carefully curated type announced the “Frida Kahlo Gallery.” That wall, in the hallway that led to the restrooms, was an odd setting for the single Kahlo painting that apparently comprised the gallery’s holdings.  But then, one of Mexico’s most celebrated and eccentric artists might have found this spot perfect for “The Two Fridas.”  Created at the same time as her divorce to another of Mexico’s most celebrated artists, Diego Rivera, it is believed to depict her deep hurt at losing her husband. On the left is the Frida rejected by Rivera. Her blouse is ripped open, exposing her broken and bleeding heart. The Frida to the right, the one that Rivera still loves, has a heart that is still whole. She holds a small portrait of Rivera in her hand. After her death, this small portrait of Rivera was found amongst Kahlo’s belongings.

Kahlo was born in 1907, but preferred that people believe her birthday to be in 1910 to correspond with the Mexican Revolution. She died at age 47, a brief life that burned brightly. She overcame polio as a child, and an horrific bus accident as a young woman that left her immobile for three months and in pain much of the rest of her life.  And still she managed to accumulate an extraordinary body of acclaimed artwork, not to mention an extraordinary collection of lovers of both genders. She had affairs with everyone from Leon Trotsky to Josephine Baker.

That one painting, and the story of the artist behind it, was alone worth the visit to this remarkable place we’d stumbled upon by quite by accident. More folks should will wander off the Riverwalk and discover it as well. But I’m glad they didn’t that day. Because this was just the sort of secret I’d hoped this adventure would unearth.