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Remembering Clara

The reminder still pops up on my Google calendar each year in June. This would have been Clara’s 82nd birthday. One of the “signs” we were given that it was time to close the New Orleans chapter of our life, and begin a new one, was when we lost our beloved friend a few years ago.  Last summer I was back in my hometown of Iowa City visiting my family, during the Iowa Summer Writing Festival.  So I enrolled in a humor writing workshop. And Clara was pretty much a given topic for me:

Clara

“What should I do with this?” Clara’s face was absolutely deadpan. Despite the fact that in her hand was a two-foot, two-headed dildo.

As it happened, this wouldn’t be the only time that one of our most frequent guests [we’ll call him Steve] would forget this “personal item” when he checked out from his stay at our New Orleans bed and breakfast. A personal item that we immediately nicknamed “The Anaconda.”

Clara wasn’t really expecting an answer from me. She’d already padded off to the storeroom where she found a discreet hiding place to store “Steve’s” oversight—until it was time to tuck it back under the pillow on his bed before his next visit.

I’ve never found an adequate title for this once very beautiful, still striking in her seventies woman, who sort of came along with the deal when we bought the B&B.

This purchase had been more of a wow-isn’t-this-place-fabulous impulse—than a well-considered investment. So we were more than grateful to be taken under the café au lait-colored wing of someone who’d worked for the previous owner and knew about the biz. And as we were to learn over the next few years, about so much more.

Some might have called her the housekeeper. But that would be like calling the Queen Mary a boat. And so she was just Clara.  No adequate description possible.

Happy crossed over just a few months before Clara. I'm quite certain she's back in Clara's arms up there beyond the Pearly Gates.

Our dog Happy crossed over just a few months before Clara. I’m quite certain she’s back in Clara’s arms up there beyond the Pearly Gates.

Each morning she’d arrive long before we, and in most cases the guests, were awake. Outfitted in the blue scrubs she’d chosen as her work uniform, she’d start a pot of chicory-laced coffee and serve herself the first cup, while she read through that morning’s Times Picayune—a magnifying glass and dictionary at the ready.  Clara embraced the notion of “lifelong learning” long before it became an overused expression in academia.

There would be much for us to learn from Clara as well, in the eight years that we knew her, as dribs and drabs of her colorful life story revealed themselves in brilliant flashes.

“People say they’ve read about me on the Internet,” she told me one morning.  While a woman of many accomplishments, navigating the web was not among them.

“Let’s Google you,” I replied as I sat down at the keyboard. Up first came the responses that I’d expected. There are a number of places where guests could comment online about their experience at our B&B, and glowing reports about Clara featured prominently among those comments.

But then a bit further down the first page of results was another completely different hit.

“Well this is interesting,” I called out to Clara, who’d wandered off to dust something. “Someone with the same name as yours testified at the JFK assassination hearings!”

She stopped dusting. There was just a beat before she responded.

“That was me.”

As we were to learn in the conversation that ensued, Clara had once been the housekeeper for New Orleans businessman Clay Shaw, one of those implicated in the investigation. And her “fly on the wall” testimony had been sought by the committee.

Another such conversation around the kitchen table revealed that Clara had also once been a “Madame” of sorts.

Back in the days when the Italian mob ran much of the business in the French Quarter, Clara had worked as a bartender in an establishment which offered something besides popcorn as a compliment to customer’s cocktails.

After the owner for whom Clara worked had bought the bar, he’d arranged for a bit of remodeling to be done. Full sized mirrors were installed on the back wall of both the men’s and women’s restrooms.  Special mirrors.

Patrons would wander through the front door in search of a drink and the companionship strategically displayed on barstools around the room. There’d be a brief conversation with Clara. Both parties in the just negotiated transaction would adjourn to their respective bathrooms, whereupon she would reach beneath the bar and press a button. Which released the magnetic locks on the mirrors. Turning them into doors to a hidden room in back.

As it turned out, that previous employment would prove handy during her time with us.

We once rented the entire house to a group of guys planning a bachelor’s weekend for a buddy about to tie the knot—but only after an extensive interview process during which we’d determined that this was a somewhat older groom with a entourage of computer nerd buddies, who were unlikely to wreak havoc on our historic home. We did however get an unexpected call  from one of the group,a week before their arrival.

“I have a question,” he said, sheepishly followed after an awkward pause by, “Do you know where we could hire a stripper?”

Not a question his gay hosts were well equipped to answer. At least not if they wanted a female stripper.

“Hold on,” I told him, cupping my hand over the receiver. “Clara? Do you know where these guys can hire a stripper?”

“Blonde or brunette?” she responded without hesitation.

Unsung Places

My friends at Country Roads Magazine asked me to write about some of my favorite places discovered as we wander about. Here’s that story.

As chance would have it, our RV park for an overnight stop was just down the road from Mesilla, New Mexico. Once the Confederate capital of the Arizona Territory, today  it's an arts community filled with very cool adobe homes.

As chance would have it, our RV park for an overnight stop was just down the road from Mesilla, New Mexico. Once the Confederate capital of the Arizona Territory, today it’s an arts community filled with very cool adobe homes.

Ode to Cannon Beach

I’ve never considered myself a beach person. Lying on hot sand, no matter how crystalline white it may be, acquiring the golden glow of future melanoma, hasn’t been appealing since high school. (I still recall the summer in high school when I was briefly unemployed and acquired an actual tan.  That was also the year I put “Summer Blond” in my hair to lighten it. And it began falling out. Quite coincidentally I’m sure.)

But now I’ve fallen in love with Cannon Beach on Oregon’s pacific shore. Hard packed sand you can walk for miles in search of starfish. The sand is brown, not the brilliant white we know from the Florida panhandle, but has a surprising range of nuanced color as it interacts with the sun and the sea.

Huge rocks shrouded in mist. Cliff top views. Surfers. Children. Dogs.

Something to awaken every sense.

But the pictures tell the story better than I can.

Tsunami Creek TwoSurfers Thistle DaveCliff Dudes Surfboard DaveSurft Lighthouse

 

Disneyworld vs. Weeki Wachee

WeekiWacheeSo much of how we enjoy an experience is predicated on our expectations. One of the first things we did when Dave and I arrived for our two-month stay in central Florida was head for Disneyworld.  The American Express card whimpered a little when we dumped nearly $200 each on it for two-day passes. I arched an eyebrow as the gate attendant ever so perkily asked me to place my index finger on a scanner so they could gather my fingerprint (To prevent me from sharing my access card.)

There’s still a lot of magic in the Magic Kingdom, and we loved the new “retro-future” look of Tomorrowland, as well as the newish Monsters, Inc. Laugh Floor there, where you can text in a joke and if it’s good enough an animated monster will deliver it to the crowd. We stood in back with big grins on our faces at the Enchanted Tales with Belle attraction in Fantasyland, where an animated Lumiere and a lovely young lady portraying Belle, did indeed enchant every child in the room. The Hall of Presidents is still a rousing romp through American history made even more entertaining by an extraordinary a cappella group that performed before the show.

Epcot isn’t aging so well though. It’s tough to stay ahead of the future. The animatronics used in many of the rides are so last century. Many attractions feature nicely produced films, but the projection quality was often poor by today’s standards.  And several of the rides we were on broke down, albeit briefly.

“Was it worth it?” we wondered aloud at the end of our visit. Just barely, we concluded. There remains a lot to love about Disneyworld, but when you’re paying nearly a $100 a day you expect a flawless experience.

Mermaids train for up to a year for these performances, often accompanied by the original inhabitants of the springs.

Mermaids train for up to a year for these performances, often accompanied by the original inhabitants of the springs.

Flash forward to a warm and sunny Florida day last weekend, just down the road at the Weeki Wachee Springs State Park. In 2008 the state took over operation of the venerable Florida attraction, which staged its first underwater mermaid show in 1947.

I was expecting the equivalent of a dog-eared vintage postcard: A sweet but faded glimpse into a colorful past.

Merman

Dave agrees to yet another of my silly photo op requests.

What we found was a beautifully maintained state park, where we first boarded a pontoon boat for a float down the crystal clear Weeki Wachee River (fed by the 112 million gallons the springs pump out every day). Our half-hour journey took us past a manatee mama and her calf, a gigantic eagle’s nest, a deer wading near the shore, an alligator and several kayakers.

On the other side of the park you can swim in the spring where the water is a constant 74 degrees. We waded in, wishing we’d brought our suits on that 80 degree afternoon.

But we were really here for the mermaid show.  And what a show it was. The underwater ballerinas that perform here, slender air hoses in hand,  train for up to a year. They can hold their breath for two and a half minutes. (Try it.) For half an hour they dived, and twirled, and blew bubbles—to the delight of young and old alike.

MoldmachineBut the fun was not quite over.  For $2 we watched our mermaid souvenir being injection molded before our very eyes, delivering the result into our hands still warm. A delightful afternoon indeed.  All for $13 each.

Phil Robertson and Me

Phil back in his college days..apparently .conforming to a different set of expectations.

Phil back in his college days—apparently .conforming to a different set of expectations.

Phil and I are about the same age. He’s just a couple years older than I am.  But during the course of each of our stays on this planet, we’ve reached very different conclusions about God’s intent for our lives—if what he’s reported to have said turns out to be his true belief.

I spent half my career in television. So I’m well aware that there’s nothing real about reality TV.  And I was already disturbed by how hugely popular these shows are—where (with a few exceptions) producers goad already marginal human beings into really creepy behavior. The corporate sociopath in New York I reported to at one of the television stations where I worked, once told me, “You never lose money by underestimating the intelligence of the American public.”

I hate admitting he may be right.

But Duck Dynasty seemed the rare exception. I watched it once at my brother’s house. The family portrayed on the show appeared to genuinely love each other. And didn’t scream obscenities are each other. Then Phil opened his mouth without an editor at the ready to mold him back into a lovable patriarch.

But it’s not really the coarse, idiotic stuff that reportedly came out of Phil’s mouth on multiple occasions that most bothers me. BIgots will always be with us. I struggle instead, with millions of people flocking to the defense of someone who said something hateful. Is it really about free speech? Did those same folks rush to defend the free speech rights of the Dixie Chicks over their comments about President Bush?

Phil is certainly not the first to cherry pick the bible in support of bigotry. We spent the month of November in Augusta, Georgia—which also happens to be where Woodrow Wilson spent much of his childhood. The home the future president lived in it now a museum, and on our tour we learned that Wilson’s father was the pastor of the Presbyterian church in Augusta. And an ardent supporter of the Confederacy. He regularly used his sermons to reassure his congregation that slavery was in full compliance with biblical teaching.

I’m one of those who thinks Phil should be able to say what he wants. But I also think what he said should have evoked a universal collective gasp from society.  Why didn’t it?

Louisiana’s Lieutenant Governeur Jay Dardenne issued a statement supporting Robertson (after all, he’s head of Louisiana’s tourism effort and Duck Dynasty has been huge boon to that industry.) But while he carefully distanced himself from what Phil had a say about happy black folk back in the good ole days—the same was not true for his comments on gay folk.

Jay wants to be Louisiana’s next governor.  And I actually think he’d be a good one. But you don’t get elected governor of Louisiana by supporting equal rights for gay people. Why might that be?

I think I figured out why some years ago when I taught a class in interpersonal communication at a community college. In the midst of a discussion on “finding common ground,” one of my students raised his hand.

“Conservatives don’t believe in that,” he said. “When you’re right, why would you change your position?”

I was speechless. How could anyone be that certain they’re always right?

And therein lies the root of the problem here.

There is a principle in communications studies called “uncertainty reduction theory.”

The theory posits that we all wired to be uncomfortable with uncertainty. It’s meant to apply to personal relationships, but I see it in a broader context.

In the old days the most effective method of reducing uncertainty was to acquire new information. But now in the internet age, that paradigm has completely shifted.

Today we’re overwhelmed with information, much of it in direct conflict.  So how do we reduce uncertainty in this environment?

By adopting a narrower view of the world.

I admit I’m a bit jealous of that student and others who’ve managed to make life seem simpler with this strategy. (I came to like and respect this man as the semester progressed. He had an autistic son and a number of other life challenges that threatened to overwhelm him. He once told me how dismayed he was because he couldn’t sort out what to believe.)  I live in a world of grays…and can fully understand how comforting it would be to let Fox News (or MSNBC) tell you what to believe politically. Or to let Pastor Wilson interpret the bible for you.

We’re uncomfortable with what we don’t understand. So we flock to the comfort of the herd’s mentality.  And the whole “gay thing” can be pretty scary. I know it was for me.

I was terrified. Terrified that if I came out, I would be abandoned. Alone.

Today gay teenagers commit suicide at a rate three times higher than other teens. I was long past my teenage years when I came out—and I too would have committed suicide, had it not been for the intervention of some amazing people who love me unconditionally—and from the God of my understanding. Who also loves me unconditionally.

That’s why this fear and ignorance has to stop—now—with our generation. Phil’s and mine.

The Cracker Barrel Confession

DavePuzzleForgive me Father for I have sinned…

Dave and I ate breakfast at Cracker Barrel this morning.  And despite this restaurant chain’s questionable social justice record, I enjoyed my pecan sticky bun French toast every bit as much as Dave enjoyed playing the Golf Tee Game.

I still occasionally give in to a craving for Cracker Barrel even though I haven’t eaten at a Chick-Fil-A since the anti-gay tweets from its faux Christian founder came to light.  After all, who could resist this wide-eyed unicorn in the Cracker Barrel gift shop?Unicorn

 

A BRIEF ASIDE:

Quick multiple choice quiz Dan Cathy:  WWJD?  If Jesus had millions of dollars to give away would he:

A:  Give those dollars to organizations working to keep gay people from marrying the person they love?

B:  Use them to help the sick and the poor?

The confession doesn’t stop there I’m afraid. I also bought Christmas ornaments at Hobby Lobby.  And we regularly go to Walmart. (Every Walmart has an RV section—very handy when you run out of the special toilet paper.)

But while I can’t promise to let go of these bad habits cold turkey, one of my New Year’s resolutions is to step up my efforts to support local businesses and those that pay their employees a fair wage, as well as those businesses who embrace diversity. Those that really do understand the meaning of the question: WWJD?

Beyond American Gothic: Part 2

Dave checks out Grant Wood's tiny studio.

Dave checks out Grant Wood’s tiny studio.

Grant Wood is perhaps my home state of Iowa’s most renowned artist, but until last summer I really knew little more about him than that he painted American Gothic.  That all changed when, on a trip to the small town library near our campground I spotted something quite unexpected: Full frontal nudity.

Okay, that was cheap—but true. The library had an extensive collection of Wood’s lithographs including “Sultry Night” which depicts a naked farmer cooling off at the horse trough.

Wood designed this window for the door of his studio. There is a pointer that can be dialed around to show if he's home—and taking a bath, or having a party.

Wood designed this window for the door of his studio. There is a pointer that can be dialed around to show if he’s home—and taking a bath, or having a party.

I’m just back from a Christmas trip home and had a chance to add to what I learned on that earlier visit (which you can read about HERE) with a tour of the studio in Cedar Rapids where Wood painted many of his most noted works.

The studio was in a converted hayloft above a stable that once housed horses used to pull hearses for the adjoining funeral home.  Once mechanization came along the stable wasn’t needed anymore and as it happened, the funeral home’s owner was one of Wood’s patrons, and offered him the space in 1924. He lived there (for a while along with his mother and sister) for over a decade.

Wood created these collages which he gave to friends using found materials from around his studio located on a back alley—and thus named them "Lilies of the Alley."

Wood created these collages which he gave to friends using found materials from around his studio located on a back alley—and thus named them “Lilies of the Alley.”

Wood designed built-in furniture for the space (he was, I now know, also a noted local interior decorator), and even included a small stage for performances of the local community theater company—which he founded. He was also a sculptor, and designed jewelry—as well a huge stained glass window for a local public building.

He was multi-talented, witty, and reportedly gave great parties.  So not so surprising then that a number researchers have come to the conclusion that he was probably gay.

Foto Friday

DaveWoodenShoesWEBI’ve decided to fill in (while I’m pondering my pithier posts) with a few favorite photos from along the way.  This one of Dave in giant wooden shoes was taken in Pella, Iowa, which was founded by a Dutch minister who’d been banned from preaching his version of the Good Word in the Netherlands.  Fun fact:  Long before he wore cowboy boots, Wyatt Earp also (probably) wore wooden shoes here in the town where he grew up.

Finding Family

Garden1WebDuring our stay at Jones Pond Campground in western New York, the Fabulous Fifth Wheel sat at the edge of a meadow where we could look out at a garden a short walk away. It was the most beautiful spot in the campground.

A long path lined with cheerful Black-eyed Susans leads to a gazebo. Inside resting on a wicker table there’s a binder. Inside the binder is page after page, filled with poems, pictures and remembrances dedicated to a loved one who has passed.

This is the campground’s memorial garden.Garden3WEB

And particularly today, as we celebrate our 22nd anniversary together, it is a vivid reminder of how fortunate Dave and I are. We have a life filled with family and friends who love and support us just as we are. Not everyone is so lucky.

Each of the campgrounds we’ve visited so far is very much a community. Each has a large contingent of seasonal campers who spend every weekend at the campground, sometimes the entire summer, and camping neighbors become fast friends.

Garden2WebThe difference for some gay campers, is that in many cases those friends also become a “chosen” family to replace one that has turned away from them.

For us this campground was a beautiful, welcoming stop along our journey. For others it’s a beautiful, welcoming refuge from a world that isn’t always.